Form of fanstrap formation in terms of reliability AMNIMARJESLOW AL DO FOUR DO AL FOUR LJBUSAF thankyume orbit

                                      Form of fan strap formation in terms of reliability 



When should a timing belt be changed?
Check with dealers of your brand. Some are about gone after 50,000 miles; some longer. If you have an "interference" motor and the belt breaks, the pistons can hit the valves and destroy your engine


service fan strap :

Steps

Part 1

Finding and Evaluating Your Belt

1. 
   1
   Park your car in a well lit place. This will make it easier to work under the hood. You can also use a drop light or other supplemental lighting if you deem it necessary.
2. 
   2
   Locate the belt in question. Most belts will be found on the side of the engine block. Serpentine belts are easily identified because they weave through several pulleys. V-belts are looped around two pulleys and there are two or more belts overlapping at a point, forming a V-shape. You should replace the belt:

   • if it is frayed or tearing.
   • if it has cracks or missing chunks.
   • if the belt has coolant or oil on it.
   • These conditions make the belt incapable of properly running its components, which can lead to major problems for your engine. If for any reason you cannot locate an accessory belt or gain easy access to it then you should take your vehicle to professional.^[1]

Part 2

Removing the Old Belt

1. 
   1
   Locate a routing diagram. This can usually be found posted underneath the hood of your car or in your service manual for serpentine belts (S-belts).^[2] If you drive a much older car, you may have a multi-belt design (V-belt). Either way, if you cannot find a routing diagram you should take a picture or draw one before removing the belt(s).

   • Be sure to make note of whether the grooved side or flat side of the belt makes contact with each pulley. It is important not to put the new belt on backwards.
2. 
   2
   Release the tension on the belt. There are a few things to remember when releasing tension on a belt.

   • For serpentine belts this is done by compressing the spring loaded tensioner.
   • The tensioner is just another pulley that the belt runs over, but only serves to keep tension on the belt and does not power any accessories.
   • Some tensioners can be compressed by turning them with simple hand tools such as a wrench, and others may require a special tool. Usually twisting the pulley clockwise will compress the spring.
   • V-belts do not have an automatic tensioner. They can be removed by adjusting the position of one of their pulleys to release tension.
   • To loosen a pulley, turn it with a wrench or specialized tool. By convention, counter-clockwise will loosen the pulley.
3. 
   3
   Remove the belt. Once tension is released, the belt should slide off of the other pulleys easily.
4. 
    
   Check the pulleys. One reason for a damaged belt is a malfunctioning pulley. You should check the tensioner and all pulleys that the belt contacts. If one wobbles or does not spin freely then you may need to replace it. 

 

 

  

 

Tips

• Clean up any oil in the vicinity of your belt. Oil degrade the belt quickly, leading to more problems.
• If you notice oil or debris on pulleys, you should clean them thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner before installing the new belt.

Warnings

• Spring loaded tensioners can release quickly and forcefully. If you do not have the proper tools or are uncomfortable releasing/tightening the tensioner then you should take your vehicle to a professional.
• Do not put your hand, or any part of your body, into contact with anything spinning or moving on a running vehicle.
• There is ONLY ONE configuration for a serpentine belt. Even if it appears to fit differently than is shown in your routing diagram this can lead to pulleys being turned backwards and cause serious damage to your vehicle. 

Things You’ll Need

• Gloves
• Hand Tools
• Wire Brush
• Brake Cleaner
• Replacement Belt  

 

 

Most modern vehicles come equipped with serpentine belts, though they may occasionally be called fan belts. Older vehicles may have belts that are used only to power the fans that cool the radiator. These belts are very similar and may be treated in the same fashion. A noisy fan or serpentine belt can make chirping, squeaking or squealing sounds that may be consistent or may come and go. Often, these sounds indicate an issue that may need to be resolved like a loose or damaged belt. 

 

 

Steps

Method 1

Applying Belt Dressing to Neoprene Belts

1. 
   1
   Ensure your vehicle is equipped with a neoprene belt. Most modern vehicles have a serpentine belt instead of a fan belt, though the names may be used interchangeably. Older model vehicles and some high performance applications still utilize fan belts instead of electric fans. Older belts were made of neoprene and would benefit from the application of belt dressing, but newer EPDM-made belts may dry out as a result of using belt dressing.^[1]

   • If your fan belt was installed after the year 2000, it is likely an EPDM-made belt.
   • The two belts are difficult to tell apart visually until they are worn out and need to be replaced.
2. 
   2
   Open the hood. You will need to apply the belt dressing directly onto the belt. In order to do so, you will need to open the hood of the vehicle and remove any cowl cover that may be in place over the fan belt itself. This may require the use of some basic hand tools like a socket or hand wrench.

   • Some vehicles have engine covers that will need to be removed.
   • You will need direct line of sight and access to the belt while the engine is running.
3. 
   3
   Locate the fan belt. The fan belt will likely be located at the front of the engine, attached to a pulley that rotates the cooling fan or fans for the radiator. It will often be black or grey. You may be able to locate it faster by starting at the radiator fan and working backward.

   • In many older American vehicles, the fan belt is connected to shaft with a large metal fan at the end and is easy to identify.
   • Serpentine or accessory belts that serve the same function as a fan belt may be on the side of a horizontally mounted engine.
4. 
   4
   Start the vehicle. Ensure the vehicle is in park with the parking brake engaged, then start the engine. You will need the engine to be running in order to apply the belt dressing evenly over the entire length of the belt.

   • Leave the hood open and engine covers removed when starting the engine.
5. 5
   Spray the belt dressing directly onto the belt. With the engine running, spray the belt dressing directly onto the back of the fan belt. As the engine runs, the fan belt will be moving quickly, so you can leave the can in one place and spray onto the belt as it spins.

   • Spray the belt dressing onto the belt until the entire belt is wet.
   • The squeaking from the fan belt should stop almost immediately.

Method 2

Tightening or Aligning a Fan Belt

1. 
   1
   Inspect the belt for misalignment. A common cause of noisy fan belts is a slight misalignment of the belt on the pulleys. With the hood open, examine the belt to ensure it is mounted on the top most pulley completely straight. If you are unsure, place a tape measure along the pulley to provide yourself with a frame of reference.

   • If the belt is offset even slightly, it will cause squeaking, squealing or chirping.
   • A belt that is not properly aligned with wear out faster.
2. 
   2
   Identify signs of damage or excessive wear. If your belt needs to be replaced, it will often become noisy as a result of the wear or damage. Shine a light on the belt and look at it closely. If there are any visible cracks or chunks of belt missing, the belt should be replaced immediately.

   • Modern EPDM-made belts are designed to last up to 100,000 miles before being replaced, but may wear prematurely due to misalignment or unusual driving conditions.
   • Neoprene belts must be replaced every 30,000 to 60,000 miles.
3. 
   3
   Locate the tensioner pulley. Some vehicles come equipped with a tensioner pulley that applies tension to the serpentine or fan belts. If you are unsure if your vehicle came equipped with a tensioner pulley, refer to the service manual for your specific year, make and model vehicle.^[8]

   • The tensioner pulley is often bolted directly to the engine block and has an opening that will fit a ½ inch drive ratchet.
   • Not all vehicles come equipped with a tensioner pulley.
4. 
   4
   Replace the tensioner pulley. If the tensioner pulley (or auto tensioner) is too worn out to be able to apply sufficient tension to the belt, you will need to replace it. You should not be able to press on the pulley to relieve belt tension by hand. If you are able to, the tensioner must be replaced. Most tensioners are held in place using only one or two bolts.

   • Remove the old tensioner by removing the bolts passing through it and into the engine block.
   • You may want to replace the belt at the same time due to any damage that may have resulted from the loose tensioner.
5. 
   5
   Tighten the tensioner. In some vehicles, the belt tension is established by an adjustable bracket on an accessory such as the alternator. In these cases, loosen the two bolts that pass through the adjustable eyelet on the bracket. Slide a pry bar between the alternator and the engine block and pry the alternator away from the engine with the belt over the pulley. Maintain that tension while you tighten the two bolts you loosened in the eyelets.

   • This task may be easier to accomplish with a friend helping maintain the tension on the belt.
   • Be careful to ensure the belt is completely straight on the pulley.

Method 3

Replacing the Belt

1. 
   1
   Purchase a replacement belt. You can purchase a replacement belt from your local auto parts store. Make sure to provide them with the exact year, make and model of the vehicle as well as engine size so you receive the correct replacement belt.

   • It is recommended that you use an EPDM style belt to replace your old one.
   • Compare your new belt to the old one to ensure the new belt is the proper length and width.
2. 
   2
   Relieve the tension on the belt. If your vehicle came equipped with an auto tensioner pulley, it can usually be loosened by inserting the end of a ½ inch drive ratchet into the hole at the center of the pulley. In some vehicles, it may be a bolt head you will need to locate the proper size wrench to turn. Twist the pulley clockwise to bend the tensioner arm down and remove the tension from the belt.

   • If the belt tension is held in place using the alternator bracket, loosen the bolts that pass through the eyelets on the bracket to relieve the belt tension.
3. 
   3
   Remove the belt from the engine. Make note of how the belt is run through the engine. If it is strictly for use on the fan, it will have very few twists and turns, but if it is a more modern serpentine belt design, it may need to pass through and around a number of pulleys. Your vehicle’s service or owner’s manuals should provide a diagram on how the belt is to be run, but you still may want to get a good look at it before removing it.

   • If you do not have a diagram of how the belt should be run, take a picture of the old belt with your phone before removing it.
4. 
   4
   Install the new belt. Run the new belt through the pulleys in the same way the previous one was. Be sure the belt fits onto each pulley evenly and in a completely straight line to avoid damaging the belt and making lots of noise.

   • Refer to the owner’s or service manual for your specific vehicle to be sure you’ve run the fan or serpentine belt correctly.
   • Running the belt at an angle will result in loud squealing. Be sure it is mounted flat and evenly.
5. 
    
   Apply tension to the belt. With the new belt in place, relieve the tension you have applied to the auto tensioner to secure it. In vehicles equipped with a bracket to apply tension, insert a pry bar between the bracket and the block and pry it away from the engine. Tighten the eyelet bolts with tension applied.

   • Visually inspect the new belt to ensure it is straight.
   • Start the vehicle to check for squealing.

         



         



  Adjustment

Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is maintained by an automatic (spring load) belt tensioner.
The belts used on these vehicle are equipped with automatic (spring load) tensioners which maintain tension. No adjustment is necessary or possible.

Belt Tension Inspection

Inspect the drive belt for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately.
Inspect the drive belt for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately.

Drive Belt Routings

The belt routing schematics are published from the latest information available at the time of publication. If anything differs between these schematics and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located in the engine compartment.
    

Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.7L and 4.7L gasoline engines  

    

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.9L, 5.2L and 5.9L LDC gasoline engines Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.9L, 5.2L and 5.9L LDC gasoline engines 

         
Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing: Alternator (1), idler pulley (2), P/S pump (3), A/C compressor (4), crankshaft (5), belt tensioner (6) and water pump (7)-5.7L engine Accessory serpentine belt routing: Alternator (1), idler pulley (2), P/S pump (3), A/C compressor (4), crankshaft (5), belt tensioner (6) and water pump (7)-5.7L engine
     

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-5.9L HDC and 8.0L gasoline engines with A/C Accessory serpentine belt routing-5.9L HDC and 8.0L gasoline engines with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-5.9L HDC and 8.0L gasoline engines without A/C

Accessory serpentine belt routing-5.9L HDC and 8.0L gasoline engines without A/C

The belt routing schematics are published from the latest information available at the time of publication. If anything differs between these schematics and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located in the engine compartment.

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C

Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C

Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C

Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C

Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-A/C compressor (1), Without A/C (2), Power Steering Pump (3), Water Pump (4), Crankshaft Pulley (5), Auto tensioner (6), Alternator (7), Idler pulley (8)

Accessory serpentine belt routing-A/C compressor (1), Without A/C (2), Power Steering Pump (3), Water Pump (4), Crankshaft Pulley (5), Auto tensioner (6), Alternator (7), Idler pulley (8)

Removal & Installation

1. Attach a socket/wrench to the pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner.
 
2. Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise (as viewed from front) until tension has been relieved from belt.
 
3. Remove the belt from idler pulley first.
 
4. Remove the belt from vehicle.
   
   WARNING

   When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. The correct belt with correct length must be used.
   
   
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-A/C compressor (1), Without A/C (2), Power Steering Pump (3), Water Pump (4), Crankshaft Pulley (5), Auto tensioner (6), Alternator (7), Idler pulley (8)
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-A/C compressor (1), Without A/C (2), Power Steering Pump (3), Water Pump (4), Crankshaft Pulley (5), Auto tensioner (6), Alternator (7), Idler pulley (8)
 
5. Position drive belt over all pulleys except idler pulley. This pulley is located between generator and A/C compressor.
 
6. Attach a socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner .
 
7. Rotate socket/wrench clockwise. Place belt over idler pulley. Let the tensioner rotate back into place.
 
8. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pulleys.
 
9. Check belt indexing marks.
 

3.7L & 4.7L Engines

WARNING

Do not let tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, sever damage may occur to the tensioner.

Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is maintained by an automatic (spring load) belt tensioner.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
 
2. Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts it's stop. Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into the freearm position..
 
3. Check condition of all pulleys.
   
   WARNING

   When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the water pump rotating in the wrong direction.
 

To install:

1. Install new belt. Route the belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner arm until it contacts it's stop position. Route the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys.
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.7L and 4.7L gasoline engines
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.7L and 4.7L gasoline engines
 
2. With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt wear indicator. On 4.7L Engines only, the gap between the tang and the housing stop (measurement A) must not exceed 24 mm (.94 inches). If the measurement exceeds this specification replace the serpentine accessory drive belt.
   
   
   

    

   Fig. With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt wear indicator. On 4.7L engines, the gap between the tang and the housing stop (measurement A) must not exceed 0.94 in. (24mm)
   With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt wear indicator. On 4.7L engines, the gap between the tang and the housing stop (measurement A) must not exceed 0.94 in. (24mm)
 

3.9L & 5.2L And 8.0L Engines
Drive belts are equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. This belt tensioner will be used on all belt configurations, such as with or without power steering or air conditioning. For more information, refer to Automatic Belt Tensioner, proceeding in this group.
Attach a socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner. The threads on the pulley mounting bolt are left- hand. Relax the tension from the belt by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise (as viewed from front). When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove belt from tensioner pulley first and other pulleys last.

 

Fig. View of the pulley bolt (1), idler pulley (2), tensioner pulley (3), tensioner (4) and tensioner mounting bolt (5)

View of the pulley bolt (1), idler pulley (2), tensioner pulley (3), tensioner (4) and tensioner mounting bolt (5)

To install:

WARNING

When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. The correct belt with correct length must be used.

WARNING

If the pulley is to be removed from the tensioner, its mounting bolt has left-hand threads.

1. Position drive belt over all pulleys except tensioner pulley.
 
2. Attach a socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner.
 
3. Rotate socket/wrench counterclockwise. Install belt over tensioner pulley. Let tensioner rotate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pulleys.
 

5.7L Engine

1. Remove the air intake tube between intake manifold and air filter assembly..
 
2. Release the belt tension by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise with a 15 mm wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt. Rotate belt tensioner until belt can be removed from pulleys.
 
3. Remove belt.
 
4. Gently release tensioner.
 

To install:

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing: Alternator (1), idler pulley (2), P/S pump (3), A/C compressor (4), crankshaft (5), belt tensioner (6) and water pump (7)-5.7L engine

Accessory serpentine belt routing: Alternator (1), idler pulley (2), P/S pump (3), A/C compressor (4), crankshaft (5), belt tensioner (6) and water pump (7)-5.7L engine

NOTE

When installing accessory drive belt onto pulleys, make sure that belt is properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys.

1. Position the drive belt over all pulleys except for the water pump pulley.
 
2. Rotate tensioner counterclockwise and slip the belt over the water pump pulley.
 
3. Gently release tensioner.
 
4. Install the air intake tube between intake manifold and air filter assembly.
 

5.9L Diesel Engine

WARNING

Do not attempt to check belt tension with a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an automatic belt tensioner.

Drive belts on diesel engines are equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. This belt tensioner will be used on all belt configurations, such as with or without air conditioning.

1. Depending on the year of the vehicle, a ³ / ₈ inch or ¹ / ₂ inch square hole is provided in the automatic belt tensioner. Attach a ³ / ₈ inch or ¹ / ₂ inch drive-long handle ratchet to this hole.
 
2. Rotate ratchet and tensioner assembly clockwise (as viewed from front) until tension has been relieved from belt.
 
3. Remove belt from water pump pulley first.
 
4. Remove belt from vehicle.
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-2001-03 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines with A/C
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C
   Accessory serpentine belt routing-2004-05 5.9L Diesel engines without A/C
 

To install:

WARNING

When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. The correct belt with correct length must be used. Position drive belt over all pulleys except water pump pulley.

1. Attach a 1/2 inch ratchet to tensioner.
 
2. Rotate ratchet and belt tensioner clockwise. Place belt over water pump pulley. Let tensioner rotate back into place. Remove ratchet. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pulleys.
 

5.9L Gasoline Engines

NOTE

The belt routing schematics are published from the latest information available at the time of publication. If anything differs between these schematics and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located in the engine compartment.

WARNING

Do not attempt to check belt tension with a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an automatic belt tensioner.

1. Drive belts on these engines are equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. This belt tensioner will be used on all belt configurations, such as with or without power steering or air conditioning.
 
2. Attach a socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner.
 
3. Rotate tensioner assembly clockwise (as viewed from front) until tension has been relieved from belt.
 
4. Remove belt from idler pulley first.
 
5. Remove belt from vehicle.
   
   
   

    

   Fig. View of the idler pulley (1), tensioner (2) and fan blade (3)
   View of the idler pulley (1), tensioner (2) and fan blade (3)
 

To install:

WARNING

When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction..

1. Position drive belt over all pulleys except idler pulley. This pulley is located between generator and A/C compressor.
 
2. Attach a socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner .
 
3. Rotate socket/wrench clockwise. Place belt over idler pulley. Let tensioner rotate back into place. Remove wrench. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pulleys.
 
4. Check belt indexing marks.

 

MITSUBISHI 1345A078 GENUINE OEM SERPENTINE TENSIONER

     

2007 C6 Corvette Wiring Diagrams 

 

Saturn 3 6 Engine Diagramon 4 3 Timing Chain Diagram 

 

8 - 47 2010 DAYCO PRODUCTS , LLC 

 

2006 chevy 3500 truck serpentine belt diagrams  

  


SOLVED: Fan belt rout for an audi a4 

  



Best way to cure belt noise on wet startup? - Page 2 - Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon 

  

 

 

how do US remove the alternator from my 2004 chevy Colorado  

 

 

GENERATOR REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the drive belt.
3. Raise and support the vehicle only high enough to access the A/C compressor through the wheelhouse. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
4. Remove the left front wheel.
5. Remove the left wheelhouse liner
6. 1. Disengage the A/C compressor electrical connector from the bracket. IMPORTANT: Evacuation of the A/C refrigerant will not be necessary.
   2. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts (2, 3) ONLY. The upper mounting bolt (2) will remain with the A/C compressor (1).
   3. Lower the vehicle.
   4. Reposition the protective boot (4) from the generator output BAT terminal (2) for access.
   5. Remove the generator output BAT terminal nut (6) and disconnect the generator lead (5) from the generator.
   6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector (1) from the generator.
   7. 
   8. Remove the 3 generator mounting bolts.
   9. Remove the engine lift bracket, in order to gain clearance to remove the generator.
   10. Position the A/C compressor forward, in order to gain clearance to remove the generator.
   11. Remove the generator from the engine. 

Chevy Radiator Questions

A radiator is normally used for lowering the temperature in a car, which has an internal combustion engine. The temperature in this engine is lowered with the help of a liquid called coolant, which flows through the engine block where it is heated and then through the radiator where the liquid looses heat. The liquid then passes back through the engine again. The system also comprises other parts such as a water pump that enables the coolant to flow through and an axial fan to move air through the radiator. Since any motor or electrical part is prone to technical issues, various problems could occur in a Chevrolet radiator leading to questions on how to deal with them. Listed below are a few common questions answered by Experts.

If a Chevy radiator fan is not working but the air-conditioner fan is turning on, could there be an issue with the engine temperature?

The engine is likely to overheat while driving if the Chevy radiator fan is not working properly. One would need to install a new radiator fan motor or else there could be a risk of overheating or damage. A motor for the radiator fan can be easily purchased from a local store that sells Chevy parts. It is also advisable to avoid switching on the air conditioner if the radiator fan is not working, as this will generate additional heat.

How does one remove the cooling fan shroud in a Chevrolet radiator?

Ensure that the ignition is turned off and all electrical loads are off before undertaking any repair work on the vehicle. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system partly. Take out the transmission oil cooler lines located below the cooling fan shroud. Then remove both engine mount struts and the front fender diagonal brace located on the upper left side. Disconnect the inlet hose from the radiator and remove the air cleaner assembly. Detach the PCM harness and the cooling fan shields if they are present. Then remove the bolts and clip from the cooling fan shroud and the radiator upper support brackets that are attached. This should enable you to lift the cooling fan shroud out of the vehicle.

Where is the drain plug for a Chevy radiator located and how is it opened?

The drain plug or drain cock is located at the bottom of the radiator in a plastic bottle or plastic sides that are attached to the radiator core. In order to open the drain plug one can use a pair of pliers or a screwdriver to turn the plug anti-clockwise and loosen it to allow the coolant to flow out. To close it, just put the plug back in and turn it clockwise till it shuts completely and feels tight.

What could be the problem in a Chevrolet radiator if the coolant is not flowing through the engine or the radiator causing the engine to overheat?

Such an issue is likely to be caused by air that is trapped in the cooling system of the vehicle. One can try to remove the air by taking out the hose located right on top of the engine and ensuring that the coolant is filled to the brim. Then running the engine to see if the air escapes. Repeat this process a few times if required always ensuring that the coolant is filled up. In case this does not work, then it is best to consult an Expert who will be able to help with the issue.

What could be the problem in a 1999 Chevy Malibu radiator where the radiator fan works when connected straight to the battery but does not switch on with the engine?

To isolate the problem one can use a specific instrument called a Class 2 Scan tool to check the coolant temperature and understand whether the computer is turning on the circuit. One would need to ensure that while conducting a scan on the computer one also checks the fan control parameters.

There are many parts in a Chevy radiator that can develop technical problems wherein each would need a specific solution. In such a scenario, it is preferable to get advice from Experts who can provide the correct information and answer any questions that may arise.

 

 

On vehicles with an electric cooling fan, disable the power to the fan by disengaging the fan motor wiring connector or removing the negative battery cable before replacing or adjusting the drive belts. Otherwise, the fan may engage even though the ignition is


2000 Land Rover Discovery

Belt tension can be checked by pressing on the belt at the center point of its longest straight span. The belt should give approximately ¹ / ₄ - ¹ / ₂ in. (6-13mm). If the belt is loose it will slip, whereas if the belt is too tight it will damage the bearings in the driven unit.
For the purposes of V-belt tensioning, there are generally three types of mounting for the various components driven by the drive belt. The first method, referred to as pivoting type without adjuster, is designed so that the component is secured by at least 2 bolts. One of the bolts is a pivoting bolt and the other is the lockbolt. When both bolts are loosened so that the component may move, the component pivots on the pivoting bolt. The lockbolt passes through the component and a slotted bracket, so that when the lockbolt-s nut is tightened the component is held in that position. There are not automatic adjusting mechanisms used with this type of mounting.
The second method of component mounting, referred to as pivoting type with adjuster, is almost identical except for the addition of an adjuster of some sort. Usually the adjuster is composed of a bracket attached to the component and a threaded adjusting bolt. After loosening the pivoting and lockbolts, the adjusting bolt can be tightened or loosened to increase or decrease the drive belt-s tension. With this type of mounting, you do not have to hold the component in a tensioned position and tighten the pivoting and lockbolts; the adjusting bolt does the job for you.
Some versions of this method of mounting use an adjuster which is built into one of the components mounting braces. The brace attaches the component to the engine and incorporates a threaded adjuster in its mid-span, so that when the threaded adjuster is turned the brace shortens or lengthens. This in turn increases or decreases the amount of tension on the component.
The third type of mounting, referred to as stationary type, is designed so that the component is mounted on its brackets. There are no pivots or lockbolts, and the component is not designed to be moved. Rather, this type of mounting uses an extra tensioner idler pulley assembly. The drive belt is tensioned by adjusting the position of the idler pulley, usually accomplished by turning the adjuster bolt on the idler mechanism.

 

Fig. A typical pivoting accessory with an adjusting bolt

 

Fig. An accessory that is fixed will have an adjustable pulley-notice the square slot to aid the adjustment

Periodic drive belt tensioning is not necessary, because an automatic spring-loaded tensioner is used with these belts to maintain proper adjustment at all times. The tensioner is also useful as a wear indicator. When the belt is properly installed, the arrow on the tensioner housing must point within the acceptable range lines on the tensioner's face. If the arrow falls outside the range, either an improper belt has been installed or the belt is worn beyond its useful life span. In either case, a new belt must be installed immediately to assure proper engine operation and to prevent possible accessory damage.

 

Fig. Typical drive belt automatic tensioner wear indicator

These engines, with the exception of the 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines, are equipped with automatic belt tensioners. Adjusting the belt tension is not possible or necessary.
3.0L (1mz-FE) And 3.3L (3mz-FE) Engines

1. Measure the belt deflection by applying 22 lbs. (98 N) of pressing force to the mid-point on each drive belt between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator (generator), or vane pump pulley.
 
2. When checking a belt used for over 5 minutes, confirm the deflection value is within the specified one.
 
3. When reinstalling a belt used for over 5 minutes, perform the check based on the used deflection value.
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Drive belt deflection value chart.-1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines
   
   
   
   

    

   Fig. Drive belt tension value chart.-1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines
 
4. Refer to the chart with belt deflection values as shown.
 
5. Measure the drive belt tension and refer to the chart for the correct tension values as shown.
 
6. When using a belt tension gauge, confirm the accuracy first by using a master gauge.
 
7. Check the drive belt tension and deflection value after 2 revolutions of engine cranking.
 

Pivoting Type
Without Adjuster

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
 
2. Loosen the component-s lockbolt and pivoting bolt only enough for the component to move.
 
3. Using a strong wooden, plastic or metal pry tool, move the component either closer to, or farther away from, the engine to provide the correct tension on the belt.
   
   WARNING

   If using a metal pry tool, always wrap the end with a rag or towel to prevent accidentally damaging the component from undue stress.
 
4. Once the proper amount of tension is applied to the drive belt, hold the pry tool with one hand while tightening the lockbolt securely with the other hand.
 
5. Release the pressure from the pry tool and tighten the pivoting bolt securely.
 
6. Double check the drive belt-s tension, in case the component moved slightly while tightening the bolts.
 
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
 

Stationary Type
Idler Pulley With Adjusting Bolt

1. Loosen the idler bracket pivot bolt and locking bolts.
 
2. Adjust the belt tension by inserting the proper size ratchet in the square slot of the idler bracket and rotating the bracket until tension is applied.
 
3. While holding the tension on the belt with the ratchet, tighten the locking bolts, then the pivot bolt.
 

Idler Pulley Without Adjusting Bolt

1. Loosen the mounting/pivot bolt behind the idler pulley.
 
2. Swivel the idler pulley with a pair of pliers or a wrench on the bearing mounting until the proper tension is achieved.
 
3. While holding the idler pulley, at the proper tension, tighten the mounting/pivot bolt.
 

Drive Belt Routings

 

Fig. Often the under side of the hood, a label will display the serpentine drive belt routing

 

Fig. Relieve the belt tension by pivoting the automatic tensioner away from the belt, then remove the belt

 

Fig. Verifying serpentine belt alignment in the pulley

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee 1997-02 2.5L or 4.0L engine with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee (right hand drive) 4.0L engine with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee (right hand drive) 4.0L engine without A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee 4.0L engine without A/C

 

Fig. Fig. 51 Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee 4.0L engine with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee 2.5L engine with A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep Cherokee 2.5L engine without A/C

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep 4.7L Grand Cherokee engine

 

Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep 3.7L and 4.7L engines

 

Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-3.0L (2JZ-GE) engine

 

Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-3.0L (1MZ-FE) engine

 

Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-4.0L (1UZ-FE) and 4.3L (3UZ-FE) engines

 

Fig.

 

Fig.

 

Fig.

 

Fig.

 

Fig.

 

Fig.

 

Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-3.0L (2JZ-GE) engine

 

Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-3.0L (1MZ-FE) engine

naturally fan strap  



   


  


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800 × 329 - classicindustries.com

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109 × 225 - ebay.com

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400 × 298 - fixya.com

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269 × 300 - fixya.com

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664 × 691 - classicparts.com

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190 × 225 - ebay.com

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250 × 170 - autozone.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com

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400 × 400 - truckbusters.co.za

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500 × 500 - alibaba.com

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228 × 228 - japspareparts.com.au

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342 × 342 - guide.alibaba.com

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500 × 183 - autozone.com

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600 × 226 - autoinsidernews.com

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448 × 350 - classicindustries.com

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283 × 300 - fixya.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com.au

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228 × 228 - japspareparts.com.au

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300 × 298 - ebay.com

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500 × 500 - iknowparts.com.au

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225 × 168 - ebay.com

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700 × 500 - isuzureplacementparts.com

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300 × 300 - truckbusters.co.za

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300 × 214 - isuzureplacementparts.sell.everychina.com

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120 × 120 - jble.en.alibaba.com

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294 × 300 - fixya.com

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417 × 300 - fixya.com

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500 × 500 - iknowparts.com.au

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201 × 225 - ebay.com

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300 × 300 - truckbusters.co.za

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300 × 300 - darmamotor.web.indotrading.com

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222 × 225 - ebay.com

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500 × 598 - fixya.com

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201 × 225 - ebay.com

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300 × 300 - truckbusters.co.za

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300 × 300 - darmamotor.web.indotrading.com

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394 × 300 - fixya.com

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550 × 550 - speedwaymotors.com

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355 × 346 - maliburacing.com

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400 × 400 - truckbusters.co.za

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500 × 500 - iknowparts.com.au

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500 × 500 - alibaba.com

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225 × 186 - ebay.com

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993 × 685 - jtoutfitters.com

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228 × 228 - japspareparts.com.au

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200 × 150 - alibaba.com

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900 × 900 - bestvalueautoparts.com

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500 × 500 - iknowparts.com.au

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600 × 173 - autoinsidernews.com

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160 × 160 - macsautoparts.com

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600 × 139 - autoinsidernews.com

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800 × 800 - dieselenginebelt.com

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500 × 500 - sparecab.com

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263 × 268 - scootercatalog.com

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278 × 300 - fixya.com

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225 × 204 - ebay.com

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350 × 302 - alibaba.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com

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423 × 293 - fixya.com

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403 × 300 - fixya.com

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225 × 208 - ebay.com

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900 × 900 - evdiesels.en.gasgoo.com

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259 × 253 - ebay.com

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103 × 225 - ebay.com

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500 × 493 - autozone.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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400 × 400 - evdiesels.en.gasgoo.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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600 × 600 - alibaba.com

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225 × 150 - ebay.com

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366 × 300 - fixya.com

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500 × 500 - iknowparts.com.au

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350 × 350 - alibaba.com

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421 × 300 - fixya.com

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500 × 563 - autozone.com

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311 × 300 - fixya.com

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140 × 140 - research.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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184 × 225 - ebay.com

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242 × 211 - onlineautorepair.net

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225 × 217 - ebay.com

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215 × 225 - ebay.com

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250 × 250 - trupar.com

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222 × 225 - ebay.com

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560 × 560 - kaiserwillys.com

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180 × 180 - globalsources.com

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400 × 310 - 2040-parts.com

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1280 × 960 - allfourx4.com.au

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500 × 279 - alibaba.com

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800 × 304 - classicindustries.com

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423 × 292 - fixya.com

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224 × 225 - ebay.com

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140 × 132 - research.com

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169 × 225 - ebay.com

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225 × 164 - ebay.com

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208 × 300 - fixya.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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600 × 600 - alibaba.com

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225 × 213 - ebay.com

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176 × 132 - thegenuinealternative.com

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219 × 225 - ebay.com

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225 × 169 - ebay.com

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490 × 490 - 1aauto.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com

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225 × 205 - ebay.com

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500 × 333 - guide.alibaba.com

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225 × 148 - ebay.com

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250 × 250 - dir.indiamart.com

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220 × 165 - alibaba.com

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198 × 300 - fixya.com

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600 × 600 - alibaba.com

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321 × 229 - alibaba.com

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600 × 600 - alibaba.com

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225 × 225 - ebay.com

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[PDF] SOLVED: NEED DIAGRAM FOR ROUTING THE SERPENTINE BELT - Fixya

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Fan strap is a car component as like as circulation in working car so do the car can refresh at any time AMNIMARJESLOW AL DO FOUR DO AL NON NINE ONE LJBUSAF thankyume orbit

                                                                        Fan strap  

 



 

Fan strap is a car component that serves as a lever of rotation produced by the engine. Through this fan rope rotation motion of the engine is used to rotate the alternator (dynamo ampere) produces an electric current. In addition, the fan rope is useful in the cooling water circulation process of the machine. 

 

                        

 

Engines & Components 

 

To improve the oiling system, or lower the new piston set, and simplify the operation of the engine to set the fan rope in the right position; Efficient and effective in order to work dynamo; The battery and the engine and the radiator do not exhaust the energy causing excessive environmental heating of the car that makes the engine and electronic components quickly depreciate the value of work due to the futile load that should be lightweight loads only the difference of light frequency instant fire so that the engine and components work in raw And yes need the thoroughness of the installation of such fan ropes as Lord Jesus said learn to me and do the burden of your problems on this earth because with me everything becomes easy without a hot fire that makes you unstable and full of worries so that we in moving the car of our lives do not strike. 

 

 

                                                                          X  .  I  

 

                              CHOOSING AN ELECTRIC FAN CONTROL  

 

For many years the most effective means of cooling the engine at slow speeds and when idling was with a multi-blade fan attached to the front of the water pump pulley.  It drew air through the radiator when the forward motion of the vehicle was too slow to create enough airflow through the radiator.  The addition of a shroud helped to funnel the airflow through the full face of the core thereby increasing the cooling effect.  However, it is not necessary for the fan to operate at times when the vehicle is running at highway speeds.  If it did, the engine would most likely never reach proper operating temperature and the parasitic loss of power could significantly lower operating efficiency.
To remove this power drain a fan clutch was added to disengage the fan so that it freewheeled at highway speeds when the airflow was sufficient.  The installation of big engines in small engine bays created a problem though; room for the traditional fan/shroud combo was limited.  The most popular solution for this was to install an electric fan and thin-line shroud in place of the mechanical unit.
Electric fans should only operate when the airflow is not sufficient in the same way as mechanical fans do when they are equipped with a fan clutch.  Electric fans don’t use a mechanical means of disengagement though, they are just turned on or off with either a temperature sensing switch installed in the coolant flow or by a toggle switch controlled by the vehicle operator.
Components to accomplish this can be bought at the local parts store but the job is made easier when one of the many fan control kits is utilized.  We chose to use the fan control kit from Spal to control our Spal 16-inch fan on our Cool Craft custom shroud installation.  It is offered in two different models; designed to engage at either 185°F. or 195°F.  Deciding which one to use requires the answers to a number of questions about your cooling system.
First you must determine which type of cooling system that you have. 

Closed-type cooling system.  The closed-type system doesn’t vent excess coolant to the outside when the heat causes expansion of the coolant.  It has a coolant reservoir that collects coolant that has expanded with the rising temperature of the coolant and would otherwise overflow from the system.  When the system temperature drops, the coolant is drawn from the coolant reservoir back into the radiator by suction created by coolant contraction thus maintaining a completely filled radiator. This cycle occurs when the coolant reaches a certain pressure in the radiator regulated by the spring holding the overflow cap closed in the filler neck.  The pressure of the expanding coolant overcomes the tension spring in the cap and allows the excess coolant under pressure to overflow into the expansion tank, or recovery tank through the overflow port in the filler neck. In a closed-type system care should be taken when checking your coolant level in the radiator.  After initial fill up, the radiator is full and the cap is installed, all level checking should be done at the expansion tank.  As the cooling system goes through it’s heating and cooling cycles, coolant needed to replace air trapped in the system will be drawn from the expansion tank.  This is where you add coolant if the system is low.  Removing the radiator cap will result in loss of system balance and it will take another heating/cooling cycle to reestablish this balance. Open-type cooling system.  Early vehicles with narrow radiators placed the tanks at the top and bottom of the core.  The filler cap was placed on the top of the top tank.  The radiator was filled with coolant to within one to two inches from the top of the tank to allow for expansion of the coolant.  When these systems were pressurized by adding a pressure release cap to the radiator, excess coolant created from expansion was vented to the outside.  An over flow catch can was installed instead of dumping this excess coolant onto the ground.  However, the coolant is not drawn back into the system as it is with the closed system.  In street applications, an upright radiator (top and bottom tanks, with the cap on the top tank) represents a compromise that will work, as long as the car is not operated at sustained high RPM, like those seen in racing. Radiator Caps The radiator cap is often overlooked in common engine overheating problems.  It is designed to add pressure to the cooling system and increase the boiling point of the coolant.  That is accomplished through the use of an internal spring-loaded pressure relief valve.  Which one to choose depends on the type of system your vehicle is equipped with.

 

        

 

 

 

 

This is a typical pressure release-type radiator cap with a spring-loaded internal cap designed to lift when reaching a predetermined pressure within the cooling system.  Early cooling systems would use a cap that released at 4-lbs. while most modern hot rod cooling systems are set for 15 to 20-lbs

 

Top Mounted Radiator Cap Location In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant.  Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently.  It is recommended that a radiator cap be used with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept.  The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F.  However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI.  Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off and more coolant added.  The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest-pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate.  If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure. Cross flow Radiator Cap Location Crossflow radiators with the tanks located on the sides of the core are used in closed systems.  The radiator cap should always be located at the highest point of the cooling system, and on the low-pressure side (after the radiator core).  Cross flow radiators mounted higher than the engine are ideal because the cap is on the tank that is connected to the water pump inlet.  This configuration offers three advantages:  1—The cap is at the highest point of the system, allowing any air to migrate to the area just below the cap.  In the event the cap vents due to excessive pressure, the air will escape first.  2— This area has the lowest velocity within the system, allowing air to separate from coolant even at high engine RPM.  3— The cap is located on the low-pressure (suction) side of the system, so it is unaffected by the pressure generated by the water pump. Water Flow Thermostats The thermostat is a temperature-controlled device installed into the cooling system that opens and closes to regulate the flow of coolant into the radiator.  It opens the valve in the thermostat allowing coolant flow at a predetermined temperature and closes halting flow when the coolant temperature drops.  Thermostats are available in a range from about 160° to over 200°.  Older vehicles with open-style cooling systems and classic engines usually use a lower temperature thermostat.  These engines operate at lower temperatures and coolant loss can occur in an open system if the system overheats.  Newer vehicles equipped with closed systems are operated at higher system temperatures to aid in reducing emissions and do not lose coolant because it is drawn back into the system when it cools.  Any aftermarket thermostat housing that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat location, or that mount the radiator cap in the top coolant hose, are not recommended.  Both of those housing styles are poorly designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM. Coolant Flow Through The System Older vehicles used low-pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators.  At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine.  Many mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool.  Some added restrictors or slowed water pump speed that prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler.  However, vehicles built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low-pressure (suction) side of the system.  This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it. A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly.  However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures.  Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. Hoses Standard full-size hoses should be used to ensure maximum coolant flow.  Using smaller "AN style" hoses can decrease flow that could inhibit proper cooling. Pulley Ratio For street applications, the water pump speed must at least match the crankshaft RPM, to a maximum of 10% faster than the crankshaft speed. The Choice for our Application Our application, a ’32 Ford highboy roadster, equipped with an upright-style open-type cooling system has to cool a big Buick Nailhead V8 with a small grille opening.  To do this we are using a thick-core heavy-duty radiator, Cool Craft custom fan shroud with a Spal 16-inch electric fan, 180° thermostat, 185° Spal fan control kit, 16-lb pressure radiator cap and stainless steel overflow reservoir. We settled on this combination after considering all of the previously mentioned factors.  The key player in keeping our system operating within the proper range is the fan control.  Ours engages the fan at 185°F and shuts off at 165°F.  This allows the cooling system to operate within the proper range without overheating at slow speeds or when idling and while avoiding any significant loss of coolant.

 

a fan wiring harness with relay, fuse holder and fan thermostat (sending unit) 185° or 195°.  Complete illustrated installation instructions make the installation simple.

Wiring diagram includes the following instructions: Mount the relay in a secure place in the engine compartment away from heat sources or on the panel with the main fuse block…whichever is most convenient. Once this is completed, connect the wires per the diagram and notes below. Red: Connect to the red wire of fan pigtail with pre-terminated yellow crimp. Gray:  Connect to thermostat socket (sending unit) with blue ring crimp connector. Yellow:  Connect to positive battery terminal using the fuse holder and yellow crimp connectors per diagram. Orange:  Connect to ignition switch +12 vdc when engine is in run position.  (Hook to constant +12 vdc for the fan to run continuously when the engine is hot even when the ignition switch is off). Black:  Connect ring terminal to chassis ground. Fuse Holder:  Connect fuse holder inline per diagram within 12-inches of the battery using ring terminal or equivalent. *Note: On medium profile fans use a 20-amp fuse; on low profile fans use a 15-amp fuse.           The thermostat (sending unit) supplied with the kit is an OE type that is designed to mount in the cylinder head of the engine.  However any mounting in the water jacket is suitable.  In our Buick Nailhead we mounted it in the water manifold on the engine block side of the water flow thermostat.  The sensor is 3/8-inch pipe thread so an adapter may be needed in some applications (1/2-inch adapter included in the kit).  Do not use Teflon tape on the sensor or you will get poor electrical contact and inaccurate temperature readings.       Grey wire is connected to the thermostat (sending unit) terminal with the blue ring crimp connector provided. Depending on the model, the thermostat (sending unit) triggers the fan on at 185°F. and off at 165°F. or on at 195°F. and off at 175°F.  A toggle switch can be wired into the system to manually override the cycling of the fan.            Pre-wired connector plugs into fan connector and the red wire is routed to the relay via an inline crimp connector.  Black wire from plug is connected to chassis ground.         Our open-type cooling system needed an overflow tank to catch coolant when the system heated up causing expansion.  We chose this Speedway polished stainless steel tank that would fit alongside the radiator within the hood confines of our narrow engine bay. SPEEDWAY Stainless steel expansion reservoir tank with screw-off cap. Heavy Wall Billet Screw in Cap Clear Neoprene Seal  Application:  This tank is designed to catch overflow from the radiator.  It cannot be pressurized.  Info:  2" outside diameter, 1⁄4" nipples-works with any radiator.  Stops loss of coolant and prevents pulling air into system when cooling off.  Polished  Specs: Body height: 14” Neck and cap height: 1” Tube Lengths: Short 1-3/8: Long 2” Overall length: 17” Mounting holes are 9.375" center to center    Tabs for mounting the tank were welded onto the left side-strap of the radiator. A MIG welded was used to minimize heat buildup during the process.  Short screws could have been used without penetrating the radiator core tubes because the outside rows are usually capped off in the tanks \ Q: What happens when a fan belt breaks? A: Quick Answer When a radiator fan belt breaks, the entire car engine can cease to work. A dead battery is a high possibility. In addition, the break may cause serious damage to the alternator, radiator, steering pump and other parts the belt controls. While some older cars have radiator fan belts, most modern cars have a serpentine belt, which serves the same function but controls many more engine parts.                                                 Top bracket was installed at least 2-inches below the top of the core.  The bottom bracket placed to lineup with the bottom mounting-tab on the tank.                                             This diagram shows the routing for the overflow hose from the radiator filler neck into the overflow tank and the excess overflow tube inside the tank. Filler neck on the radiator has this overflow port that allows the excess coolant to escape when the coolant expands from engine heating.  This happens when the radiator caps inner cap lifts due to the pressure within the system. Overflow tube within the overflow tank allows the excess coolant to be dumped onto the ground should too much coolant accumulate Overflow tank fits within the hood line of the engine bay for those who wish to run side-hoods.                                                     X  .  II    What happens when a fan belt breaks?   YES : What happens when a fan belt breaks? CLARK AND CLARIN : Quick Answer When a radiator fan belt breaks, the entire car engine can cease to work. A dead battery is a high possibility. In addition, the break may cause serious damage to the alternator, radiator, steering pump and other parts the belt controls. While some older cars have radiator fan belts, most modern cars have a serpentine belt, which serves the same function but controls many more engine parts.   There are warning signs that indicate a fan belt or serpentine belt needs to be replaced. Often, a worn belt makes a squealing noise for 1 or 2 minutes after the engine starts. Left untouched, the squeaking grows louder and lasts for longer periods of time. Drivers may notice the noise whenever the car accelerates. Other telltale signs that a belt is worn out or slipping is the development of visible cracks in or a glazed appearance on the belt. Radiator and serpentine belts sometimes become contaminated from water or oil from other engine parts. Belt damage is usually easy to detect upon close inspection. As soon as there is any noticeable damage to a radiator or serpentine belt, drivers should take the car to a mechanic and have the belt replaced. Better still, the belt should be regularly inspected to avoid extensive engine damage     YES : What are some tips for troubleshooting an overheating car?   DOLORIS  : Quick Answer To troubleshoot an overheating car, check the coolant level, look under the hood to see if the electric fan is running, examine the radiator fan switch and check to see if the thermostat is opening properly. Overheating may also be caused by a broken fan belt or clogged radiator   Full Answer A low coolant level is the most common reason for an overheating vehicle, so add more coolant fluid if necessary. If that doesn't work, allow the car to idle long enough for the engine to become hot, and then when the temperature gauge has climbed significantly, check under the hood to see if the fan has activated. If not, the overheating is caused by a problem with the fan. To see if the electric fan's motor is broken, disconnect the wiring harness from the radiator fan switch and inset a jumper wire into both contacts. If the fan does not turn on, it is burnt out. If the vehicle uses a fan belt, inspect it to see if it is broken. If the vehicle overheats most frequently when traveling at highway speeds, the problem may be that the thermostat is not opening properly. Old coolant buildup can clog the radiator, causing the vehicle to overheat. Flush the radiator annually to prevent this. It is also important to check the oil regularly to keep the engine lubricated.     YES  : What are some troubleshooting tips for car blower fans? JESSICA SIBORO : Quick Answer When a car blower fan doesn't work, the problem could be with the fuse, the fan relay, the blower resistor or the fan motor itself. To check the fuse, use a multimeter to check both ends of the fuse for power. If there is power on one end of the fuse but not the other, replace the fuse   To check the fan relay, touch the relay or listen to it while switching the fan's control on and off. If you feel or hear clicking, it's an indication that the fan relay is functioning normally. If not, replace the relay. To check the fan motor assembly, use a multimeter to check the motor for power. If there's power at the fan's terminals but the fan is not working, the blower fan is defective and needs to be replaced. If power is not present, there could be connection problems in the internal wires. Take the motor to a certified auto electrician for repairs. If the fan operates at one or some speed settings only, the blower resistor is the cause of the problem and should be replaced. Locate the blower resistor, detach it, and bring it to a parts specialist for replacement. A car's blower resistor is often located near the blower fan motor. If you cannot locate the resistor, consult the owner's manual.     YES : How do you fix your car's power window? ANSELO S : Quick Answer To fix a car's power window, first determine if the problem is mechanical or just the result of a blown fuse. If it is a fuse, replace it. If it is mechanical, identify the wiring path leading from the fuse panel to the window switch. Use a voltmeter to test for current interruption; this determines whether the switch needs replaced. Check the gaskets as well, as a tear can cause the window to stick, open slowly or not open.   To determine whether the issue is fuse-based or mechanical, turn on the car without starting the engine. Attempt to lower the windows; if none work, it is most likely a fuse. If there is no movement or sound to indicate that the motor responsible for the windows is trying to work, the fuse is likely blown. If the motor sounds or the glass attempts to move, the problem is mechanical. If the problem is a tear in a gasket, remove the old adhesive and replace it with new weatherstrip adhesive. Small tears can also be fixed with superglue. Allow either method to dry overnight before attempting to open the window. Another issue involving gaskets is friction between the gasket and glass. This is caused by misalignment or lack of lubrication. A motor does not have the torque required to open a window under these conditions. To fix this, use a silicone spray to lubricate the entire area.   YES :   How do you diagnose horn problems on your car? MOMY AND PAPA  : Quick Answer There are many causes that can lead to a broken car horn including a problem in the button or switch, a problem elsewhere in the electrical system or wiring connections, a problem with the horn relay or a burned-out fuse. When diagnosing the problem, first check the fuse box for a burned-out fuse or faulty wiring, and if the problem remains, check the horn button, the horn relay and finally the horn wiring   Full Answer The most common issue with a faulty car horn is the horn fuse. The horn fuse is located inside the fuse box, under the hood of the vehicle. If the fuse is burned out, replace it and test the horn to see if it now works. If the horn is still broken, check the wiring inside the fuse box, and make sure there are no problems with the connections. If both the fuse and the wiring in the fuse box are OK, check the horn button. Remove the steering wheel cover, and look for any debris that is preventing the button from being fully depressed. Remove any debris, and try the horn again. If the problem remains, check the horn relay. Have an assistant operate the horn button at the steering wheel while you test for voltage at the relay circuit using a voltmeter. If the relay is not working properly, replace it. While checking the horn relay, also make sure that all of the horn wire connections are OK. If there is any corrosion or disconnected wires, fix them and test the horn again.     YES : What are some troubleshooting tips for car blower fans? COWSINUS : Quick Answer When a car blower fan doesn't work, the problem could be with the fuse, the fan relay, the blower resistor or the fan motor itself. To check the fuse, use a multimeter to check both ends of the fuse for power. If there is power on one end of the fuse but not the other, replace the fuse.   Full Answer To check the fan relay, touch the relay or listen to it while switching the fan's control on and off. If you feel or hear clicking, it's an indication that the fan relay is functioning normally. If not, replace the relay. To check the fan motor assembly, use a multimeter to check the motor for power. If there's power at the fan's terminals but the fan is not working, the blower fan is defective and needs to be replaced. If power is not present, there could be connection problems in the internal wires. Take the motor to a certified auto electrician for repairs. If the fan operates at one or some speed settings only, the blower resistor is the cause of the problem and should be replaced. Locate the blower resistor, detach it, and bring it to a parts specialist for replacement. A car's blower resistor is often located near the blower fan motor. If you cannot locate the resistor, consult the owner's manual.     YES  : How do you fix your car's power window? MOMMY : Quick Answer To fix a car's power window, first determine if the problem is mechanical or just the result of a blown fuse. If it is a fuse, replace it. If it is mechanical, identify the wiring path leading from the fuse panel to the window switch. Use a voltmeter to test for current interruption; this determines whether the switch needs replaced. Check the gaskets as well, as a tear can cause the window to stick, open slowly or not open To determine whether the issue is fuse-based or mechanical, turn on the car without starting the engine. Attempt to lower the windows; if none work, it is most likely a fuse. If there is no movement or sound to indicate that the motor responsible for the windows is trying to work, the fuse is likely blown. If the motor sounds or the glass attempts to move, the problem is mechanical. If the problem is a tear in a gasket, remove the old adhesive and replace it with new weatherstrip adhesive. Small tears can also be fixed with superglue. Allow either method to dry overnight before attempting to open the window. Another issue involving gaskets is friction between the gasket and glass. This is caused by misalignment or lack of lubrication. A motor does not have the torque required to open a window under these conditions. To fix this, use a silicone spray to lubricate the entire area.     YES : What would cause a car to lose power while trying to accelerate? PUSPITASARI  MARIA SIBORO Quick Answer If a car loses power during acceleration, one of two things is causing the problem: not enough fuel or not enough power. Unfortunately, finding out an exact cause of power or fuel restriction is difficult       Full Answer To figure out what the car is lacking, owners should press the accelerator when the car starts to lose power. If this helps the car gain power, the problem is not fuel delivery. If pushing the accelerator does not help the car run smoother, fuel restriction is the problem. To find the problem, owners should first check the fuel filter for clogs or impurities. After the fuel filter is clean, the owner should purchase a fuel additive designed to clear out blockages in the fuel lines. Also, it is important to check to see if there are any fuel lines that are leaking or cracked and to inspect the fuel pump to see if it is working correctly. A loss of power can be caused by any number of problems. A good place to start is the exhaust system. Car owners should check for any holes or gaps between the exhaust and the muffler. If the car has a catalytic converter, this part also needs to be tested. This can be accomplished by hitting the converter with a rubber mallet. If there is a rattling noise, it needs to be replaced. Other possible causes of a loss of power include bad spark plugs and misfiring cylinders.   YES : Why does my car turn over but not start? LIGHTING : Quick Answer If a car turns over but does not start, it has a problem with compression, ignition or the fuel to air ratio. Determining which of these three areas is responsible for the problem is the first step in troubleshooting, according to the Linn-Benton Community College        Full Answer An engine experiencing low compression does not increase the temperature of the air and fuel mixture enough that it burns. There are several reasons cars experience low cranking compression, such as a slow turning starter motor, improper sealing of the cylinders or a broken timing belt or chain. An experienced mechanic is often able to determine the problem by listening to the engine as it attempts to crank. In order to operate correctly, the ignition system provides a spark to ignite the compressed fuel and air mix. A spark tester helps to determine if the ignition is providing sufficient spark to start the engine. If the engine produces spark but does not start, the problem is often improperly installed plug wires. Following the manufacturer's firing order helps to resolve the problem. An improper fuel to air mix prevents engines from starting. A bad fuel pump or filter limits the amount of fuel entering the cylinders. A plugged air filter makes the mix too rich for the car to start.   YES : What can cause a car to stop running while driving? WATER TUBE : Quick Answer A car can stop running while driving if it runs out of fuel or because of malfunctioning components such as alternators, fuel pumps, ignition switches or sensors. Drivers can attempt restarting the engine or gently guiding it to the side of the road if restarting fails   Full Answer Car engines can stall when driving for a number of reasons. In modern cars, faulty sensors can give the onboard computer the wrong information, causing it to set incorrect parameters which in turn could cause an engine stall. In most cars, this will result in the car's "check engine" light turning on. Furthermore, anything that interferes with the engine's supply of air or fuel can cause a stall. This could be an obstruction in the system, a malfunctioning fuel pump or a clogged filter. In the event of an engine stall, drivers should attempt to guide the car to a safe parking spot, turn on the hazard lights and call a professional for help.   YES : Why does my car stall when it is warm? GREEK : Quick Answer There are several reasons a warm car may stall, including vapor lock, an overheating fuel pump and ignition coils that are cutting out. Overheating ignition coils may also cause a car to stall when warm.                                       Full Answer Vapor lock occurs when the fuel pump does not deliver enough pressure, and the fuel begins to boil in the fuel lines. When this occurs, the fuel begins to vaporize, and no matter what type of engine the car has, it cannot run on only vapors. If the engine of the car is fuel injected, it may stall when warm due to it not receiving power from the electric fuel pumps. If the fuel pump does not get power, it cannot move the fuel through the system. This can occur in either the fuel pump relay or the automatic shutdown relay, so drivers should check both parts. Overheating engine coils cutting out may also cause a car to stall when warm. To test this, the driver should check to see if there is a spark in the engine by cranking it. If it is working, a spark and sound occurs. If the car passes this test, the stalling may be caused by an overheating ignition switch. If the key or ignition lock are hot after attempting to start the car, this is likely the cause         YES : What makes a car hard to start? GRAND MA FOR GRAND PAPA MASTER : Quick Answer A dead battery, bad starter connection, faulty ignition switch and a clogged fuel filter are all factors that make a car hard to start. In cold weather, the slow evaporation of gasoline and coagulated oil also contributes to starting problems.   Full Answer A dead battery is the most common cause of starting problems for cars, and it can be diagnosed using a battery tester to measure cranking amps. While jump-starting is a temporary solution, a dying battery will eventually die completely, so it is important to know the battery’s charge capacity and state of charge. The starter connection on a vehicle can become corroded over time, affecting the efficiency of the electrical circuit. If the starter does not spin freely when the key is turned, then the problem rests with the starter. When a car has a faulty ignition switch, turning the key to the “on” position results in the dashboard not lighting up. During the winter, low temperatures can slow down the evaporation of gasoline, making it harder for the car to burn the fuel. One solution is to spray a small amount of ether into the engine to help it start up. The cold makes oil thicker and resistant to flowing through the engine during a cold start. Synthetic motor oils are better suited for winter weather because they retain their consistency regardless of temperature. The chemicals inside a car battery are also affected by the cold, providing less energy to the starter motor, which then causes a slow turning of the engine.     YES : What is a starter relay switch?       ANGEL SAW : Quick Answer A starter relay switch is an electrical component found in vehicles that completes a circuit between the battery and the starter motor when the ignition switch is activated. The starter relay isolates the ignition circuit from the much higher current that the starter motor requires to operate   Full Answer Nearly all vehicles with internal combustion engines have an electric starter motor that initiates engine revolutions until the normal combustion process begins. These motors draw a great deal of current from the battery, often as much as several hundred amperes. Starter relay switches are often used in conjunction with an additional component called a solenoid to prevent this current from running through the ignition circuit.                             Tabs for mounting the tank were welded onto the left side-strap of the radiator. A MIG welded was used to minimize heat buildup during the process.  Short screws could have been used without penetrating the radiator core tubes because the outside rows are usually capped off in the tanks