Kamis, 06 Juli 2017

Fan strap is a car component as like as circulation in working car so do the car can refresh at any time AMNIMARJESLOW AL DO FOUR DO AL NON NINE ONE LJBUSAF thankyume orbit


                                                                        Fan strap  

 



 
Fan strap is a car component that serves as a lever of rotation produced by the engine. Through this fan rope rotation motion of the engine is used to rotate the alternator (dynamo ampere) produces an electric current. In addition, the fan rope is useful in the cooling water circulation process of the machine. 
 
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Engines & Components 
 
To improve the oiling system, or lower the new piston set, and simplify the operation of the engine to set the fan rope in the right position; Efficient and effective in order to work dynamo; The battery and the engine and the radiator do not exhaust the energy causing excessive environmental heating of the car that makes the engine and electronic components quickly depreciate the value of work due to the futile load that should be lightweight loads only the difference of light frequency instant fire so that the engine and components work in raw And yes need the thoroughness of the installation of such fan ropes as Lord Jesus said learn to me and do the burden of your problems on this earth because with me everything becomes easy without a hot fire that makes you unstable and full of worries so that we in moving the car of our lives do not strike. 
 
 
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                              CHOOSING AN ELECTRIC FAN CONTROL  
 
For many years the most effective means of cooling the engine at slow speeds and when idling was with a multi-blade fan attached to the front of the water pump pulley.  It drew air through the radiator when the forward motion of the vehicle was too slow to create enough airflow through the radiator.  The addition of a shroud helped to funnel the airflow through the full face of the core thereby increasing the cooling effect.  However, it is not necessary for the fan to operate at times when the vehicle is running at highway speeds.  If it did, the engine would most likely never reach proper operating temperature and the parasitic loss of power could significantly lower operating efficiency.
To remove this power drain a fan clutch was added to disengage the fan so that it freewheeled at highway speeds when the airflow was sufficient.  The installation of big engines in small engine bays created a problem though; room for the traditional fan/shroud combo was limited.  The most popular solution for this was to install an electric fan and thin-line shroud in place of the mechanical unit.
Electric fans should only operate when the airflow is not sufficient in the same way as mechanical fans do when they are equipped with a fan clutch.  Electric fans don’t use a mechanical means of disengagement though, they are just turned on or off with either a temperature sensing switch installed in the coolant flow or by a toggle switch controlled by the vehicle operator.
Components to accomplish this can be bought at the local parts store but the job is made easier when one of the many fan control kits is utilized.  We chose to use the fan control kit from Spal to control our Spal 16-inch fan on our Cool Craft custom shroud installation.  It is offered in two different models; designed to engage at either 185°F. or 195°F.  Deciding which one to use requires the answers to a number of questions about your cooling system.
First you must determine which type of cooling system that you have. 
Closed-type cooling system.  The closed-type system doesn’t vent excess coolant to the outside when the heat causes expansion of the coolant.  It has a coolant reservoir that collects coolant that has expanded with the rising temperature of the coolant and would otherwise overflow from the system.  When the system temperature drops, the coolant is drawn from the coolant reservoir back into the radiator by suction created by coolant contraction thus maintaining a completely filled radiator.

This cycle occurs when the coolant reaches a certain pressure in the radiator regulated by the spring holding the overflow cap closed in the filler neck.  The pressure of the expanding coolant overcomes the tension spring in the cap and allows the excess coolant under pressure to overflow into the expansion tank, or recovery tank through the overflow port in the filler neck.

In a closed-type system care should be taken when checking your coolant level in the radiator.  After initial fill up, the radiator is full and the cap is installed, all level checking should be done at the expansion tank.  As the cooling system goes through it’s heating and cooling cycles, coolant needed to replace air trapped in the system will be drawn from the expansion tank.  This is where you add coolant if the system is low.  Removing the radiator cap will result in loss of system balance and it will take another heating/cooling cycle to reestablish this balance.

Open-type cooling system
.  Early vehicles with narrow radiators placed the tanks at the top and bottom of the core.  The filler cap was placed on the top of the top tank.  The radiator was filled with coolant to within one to two inches from the top of the tank to allow for expansion of the coolant.  When these systems were pressurized by adding a pressure release cap to the radiator, excess coolant created from expansion was vented to the outside.  An over flow catch can was installed instead of dumping this excess coolant onto the ground.  However, the coolant is not drawn back into the system as it is with the closed system.  In street applications, an upright radiator (top and bottom tanks, with the cap on the top tank) represents a compromise that will work, as long as the car is not operated at sustained high RPM, like those seen in racing.

Radiator Caps
The radiator cap is often overlooked in common engine overheating problems.  It is designed to add pressure to the cooling system and increase the boiling point of the coolant.  That is accomplished through the use of an internal spring-loaded pressure relief valve.  Which one to choose depends on the type of system your vehicle is equipped with.
 
        
antifreeze chart 
 
Fan-Control-MD-1 
 
This is a typical pressure release-type radiator cap with a spring-loaded internal cap designed to lift when reaching a predetermined pressure within the cooling system.  Early cooling systems would use a cap that released at 4-lbs. while most modern hot rod cooling systems are set for 15 to 20-lbs
 
Top Mounted Radiator Cap Location
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant.  Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently.  It is recommended that a radiator cap be used with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept.  The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F.  However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI.  Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off and more coolant added.  The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest-pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate.  If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Cross flow Radiator Cap Location
Crossflow radiators with the tanks located on the sides of the core are used in closed systems.  The radiator cap should always be located at the highest point of the cooling system, and on the low-pressure side (after the radiator core).  Cross flow radiators mounted higher than the engine are ideal because the cap is on the tank that is connected to the water pump inlet.  This configuration offers three advantages:  1—The cap is at the highest point of the system, allowing any air to migrate to the area just below the cap.  In the event the cap vents due to excessive pressure, the air will escape first.  2— This area has the lowest velocity within the system, allowing air to separate from coolant even at high engine RPM.  3— The cap is located on the low-pressure (suction) side of the system, so it is unaffected by the pressure generated by the water pump.

Water Flow Thermostats
The thermostat is a temperature-controlled device installed into the cooling system that opens and closes to regulate the flow of coolant into the radiator.  It opens the valve in the thermostat allowing coolant flow at a predetermined temperature and closes halting flow when the coolant temperature drops.  Thermostats are available in a range from about 160° to over 200°.  Older vehicles with open-style cooling systems and classic engines usually use a lower temperature thermostat.  These engines operate at lower temperatures and coolant loss can occur in an open system if the system overheats.  Newer vehicles equipped with closed systems are operated at higher system temperatures to aid in reducing emissions and do not lose coolant because it is drawn back into the system when it cools.  Any aftermarket thermostat housing that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat location, or that mount the radiator cap in the top coolant hose, are not recommended.  Both of those housing styles are poorly designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM.

Coolant Flow Through The System
Older vehicles used low-pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators.  At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine.  Many mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool.  Some added restrictors or slowed water pump speed that prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler.  However, vehicles built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low-pressure (suction) side of the system.  This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it.

A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly.  However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures.  Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity.

Hoses
Standard full-size hoses should be used to ensure maximum coolant flow.  Using smaller "AN style" hoses can decrease flow that could inhibit proper cooling.

Pulley Ratio
For street applications, the water pump speed must at least match the crankshaft RPM, to a maximum of 10% faster than the crankshaft speed.

The Choice for our Application
Our application, a ’32 Ford highboy roadster, equipped with an upright-style open-type cooling system has to cool a big Buick Nailhead V8 with a small grille opening.  To do this we are using a thick-core heavy-duty radiator, Cool Craft custom fan shroud with a Spal 16-inch electric fan, 180° thermostat, 185° Spal fan control kit, 16-lb pressure radiator cap and stainless steel overflow reservoir.

We settled on this combination after considering all of the previously mentioned factors.  The key player in keeping our system operating within the proper range is the fan control.  Ours engages the fan at 185°F and shuts off at 165°F.  This allows the cooling system to operate within the proper range without overheating at slow speeds or when idling and while avoiding any significant loss of coolant.
 
Fan-Control-MD-2 
a fan wiring harness with relay, fuse holder and fan thermostat (sending unit) 185° or 195°.  Complete illustrated installation instructions make the installation simple.

Fan-Control-MD-3
 
Wiring diagram includes the following instructions:
Mount the relay in a secure place in the engine compartment away from heat sources or on the panel with the main fuse block…whichever is most convenient.
Once this is completed, connect the wires per the diagram and notes below.
Red: Connect to the red wire of fan pigtail with pre-terminated yellow crimp.
Gray:  Connect to thermostat socket (sending unit) with blue ring crimp connector.
Yellow:  Connect to positive battery terminal using the fuse holder and yellow crimp connectors per diagram.
Orange:  Connect to ignition switch +12 vdc when engine is in run position.  (Hook to constant +12 vdc for the fan to run continuously when the engine is hot even when the ignition switch is off).
Black:  Connect ring terminal to chassis ground.
Fuse Holder:  Connect fuse holder inline per diagram within 12-inches of the battery using ring terminal or equivalent.
*Note: On medium profile fans use a 20-amp fuse; on low profile fans use a 15-amp fuse.
 
 
Fan-Control-MD-4 
 
 
The thermostat (sending unit) supplied with the kit is an OE type that is designed to mount in the cylinder head of the engine.  However any mounting in the water jacket is suitable.  In our Buick Nailhead we mounted it in the water manifold on the engine block side of the water flow thermostat.  The sensor is 3/8-inch pipe thread so an adapter may be needed in some applications (1/2-inch adapter included in the kit).  Do not use Teflon tape on the sensor or you will get poor electrical contact and inaccurate temperature readings.
 
Fan-Control-MD-5
 
 
Grey wire is connected to the thermostat (sending unit) terminal with the blue ring crimp connector provided. Depending on the model, the thermostat (sending unit) triggers the fan on at 185°F. and off at 165°F. or on at 195°F. and off at 175°F.  A toggle switch can be wired into the system to manually override the cycling of the fan. 
 
 
Fan-Control-MD-6 
 
 
Pre-wired connector plugs into fan connector and the red wire is routed to the relay via an inline crimp connector.  Black wire from plug is connected to chassis ground.
 
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Our open-type cooling system needed an overflow tank to catch coolant when the system heated up causing expansion.  We chose this Speedway polished stainless steel tank that would fit alongside the radiator within the hood confines of our narrow engine bay.

SPEEDWAY Stainless steel expansion reservoir tank with screw-off cap.
  • Heavy Wall
  • Billet Screw in Cap
  • Clear Neoprene Seal
 Application:  This tank is designed to catch overflow from the radiator.  It cannot be pressurized.
 Info:  2" outside diameter, 1⁄4" nipples-works with any radiator.  Stops loss of coolant and prevents pulling air into system when cooling off.  Polished
 Specs:
  • Body height: 14”
  • Neck and cap height: 1”
  • Tube Lengths: Short 1-3/8: Long 2”
  • Overall length: 17”
  • Mounting holes are 9.375" center to center 
Fan-Control-MD-8 


Tabs for mounting the tank were welded onto the left side-strap of the radiator. A MIG welded was used to minimize heat buildup during the process.  Short screws could have been used without penetrating the radiator core tubes because the outside rows are usually capped off in the tanks

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Fan-Control-MD-9Fan-Control-MD-10Q:

What happens when a fan belt breaks?


A:

Quick Answer

When a radiator fan belt breaks, the entire car engine can cease to work. A dead battery is a high possibility. In addition, the break may cause serious damage to the alternator, radiator, steering pump and other parts the belt controls. While some older cars have radiator fan belts, most modern cars have a serpentine belt, which serves the same function but controls many more engine parts.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Top bracket was installed at least 2-inches below the top of the core.  The bottom bracket placed to lineup with the bottom mounting-tab on the tank.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
This diagram shows the routing for the overflow hose from the radiator filler neck into the overflow tank and the excess overflow tube inside the tank.
Fan-Control-MD-11
Filler neck on the radiator has this overflow port that allows the excess coolant to escape when the coolant expands from engine heating.  This happens when the radiator caps inner cap lifts due to the pressure within the system.
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Overflow tube within the overflow tank allows the excess coolant to be dumped onto the ground should too much coolant accumulate
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Overflow tank fits within the hood line of the engine bay for those who wish to run side-hoods.
 
 
 
Hasil gambar untuk fan belt
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                  X  .  II   

What happens when a fan belt breaks?

 
YES :

What happens when a fan belt breaks?

CLARK AND CLARIN :

Quick Answer

When a radiator fan belt breaks, the entire car engine can cease to work. A dead battery is a high possibility. In addition, the break may cause serious damage to the alternator, radiator, steering pump and other parts the belt controls. While some older cars have radiator fan belts, most modern cars have a serpentine belt, which serves the same function but controls many more engine parts.
 
There are warning signs that indicate a fan belt or serpentine belt needs to be replaced. Often, a worn belt makes a squealing noise for 1 or 2 minutes after the engine starts. Left untouched, the squeaking grows louder and lasts for longer periods of time. Drivers may notice the noise whenever the car accelerates. Other telltale signs that a belt is worn out or slipping is the development of visible cracks in or a glazed appearance on the belt. Radiator and serpentine belts sometimes become contaminated from water or oil from other engine parts. Belt damage is usually easy to detect upon close inspection.
As soon as there is any noticeable damage to a radiator or serpentine belt, drivers should take the car to a mechanic and have the belt replaced. Better still, the belt should be regularly inspected to avoid extensive engine damage
 
 
YES :

What are some tips for troubleshooting an overheating car?

  DOLORIS  :

Quick Answer

To troubleshoot an overheating car, check the coolant level, look under the hood to see if the electric fan is running, examine the radiator fan switch and check to see if the thermostat is opening properly. Overheating may also be caused by a broken fan belt or clogged radiator
 

Full Answer

A low coolant level is the most common reason for an overheating vehicle, so add more coolant fluid if necessary. If that doesn't work, allow the car to idle long enough for the engine to become hot, and then when the temperature gauge has climbed significantly, check under the hood to see if the fan has activated. If not, the overheating is caused by a problem with the fan.
To see if the electric fan's motor is broken, disconnect the wiring harness from the radiator fan switch and inset a jumper wire into both contacts. If the fan does not turn on, it is burnt out. If the vehicle uses a fan belt, inspect it to see if it is broken.
If the vehicle overheats most frequently when traveling at highway speeds, the problem may be that the thermostat is not opening properly. Old coolant buildup can clog the radiator, causing the vehicle to overheat. Flush the radiator annually to prevent this. It is also important to check the oil regularly to keep the engine lubricated.
 
 
YES  :

What are some troubleshooting tips for car blower fans?

JESSICA SIBORO :

Quick Answer

When a car blower fan doesn't work, the problem could be with the fuse, the fan relay, the blower resistor or the fan motor itself. To check the fuse, use a multimeter to check both ends of the fuse for power. If there is power on one end of the fuse but not the other, replace the fuse
 
To check the fan relay, touch the relay or listen to it while switching the fan's control on and off. If you feel or hear clicking, it's an indication that the fan relay is functioning normally. If not, replace the relay.
To check the fan motor assembly, use a multimeter to check the motor for power. If there's power at the fan's terminals but the fan is not working, the blower fan is defective and needs to be replaced. If power is not present, there could be connection problems in the internal wires. Take the motor to a certified auto electrician for repairs.
If the fan operates at one or some speed settings only, the blower resistor is the cause of the problem and should be replaced. Locate the blower resistor, detach it, and bring it to a parts specialist for replacement. A car's blower resistor is often located near the blower fan motor. If you cannot locate the resistor, consult the owner's manual.
 
 
YES :

How do you fix your car's power window?

ANSELO S :

Quick Answer

To fix a car's power window, first determine if the problem is mechanical or just the result of a blown fuse. If it is a fuse, replace it. If it is mechanical, identify the wiring path leading from the fuse panel to the window switch. Use a voltmeter to test for current interruption; this determines whether the switch needs replaced. Check the gaskets as well, as a tear can cause the window to stick, open slowly or not open.
 
To determine whether the issue is fuse-based or mechanical, turn on the car without starting the engine. Attempt to lower the windows; if none work, it is most likely a fuse. If there is no movement or sound to indicate that the motor responsible for the windows is trying to work, the fuse is likely blown. If the motor sounds or the glass attempts to move, the problem is mechanical.
If the problem is a tear in a gasket, remove the old adhesive and replace it with new weatherstrip adhesive. Small tears can also be fixed with superglue. Allow either method to dry overnight before attempting to open the window.
Another issue involving gaskets is friction between the gasket and glass. This is caused by misalignment or lack of lubrication. A motor does not have the torque required to open a window under these conditions. To fix this, use a silicone spray to lubricate the entire area.
 
YES :
 

How do you diagnose horn problems on your car?

MOMY AND PAPA  :

Quick Answer

There are many causes that can lead to a broken car horn including a problem in the button or switch, a problem elsewhere in the electrical system or wiring connections, a problem with the horn relay or a burned-out fuse. When diagnosing the problem, first check the fuse box for a burned-out fuse or faulty wiring, and if the problem remains, check the horn button, the horn relay and finally the horn wiring
 

Full Answer

The most common issue with a faulty car horn is the horn fuse. The horn fuse is located inside the fuse box, under the hood of the vehicle. If the fuse is burned out, replace it and test the horn to see if it now works. If the horn is still broken, check the wiring inside the fuse box, and make sure there are no problems with the connections.
If both the fuse and the wiring in the fuse box are OK, check the horn button. Remove the steering wheel cover, and look for any debris that is preventing the button from being fully depressed. Remove any debris, and try the horn again.
If the problem remains, check the horn relay. Have an assistant operate the horn button at the steering wheel while you test for voltage at the relay circuit using a voltmeter. If the relay is not working properly, replace it. While checking the horn relay, also make sure that all of the horn wire connections are OK. If there is any corrosion or disconnected wires, fix them and test the horn again.
 
 
YES :

What are some troubleshooting tips for car blower fans?

COWSINUS :

Quick Answer

When a car blower fan doesn't work, the problem could be with the fuse, the fan relay, the blower resistor or the fan motor itself. To check the fuse, use a multimeter to check both ends of the fuse for power. If there is power on one end of the fuse but not the other, replace the fuse.
 

Full Answer

To check the fan relay, touch the relay or listen to it while switching the fan's control on and off. If you feel or hear clicking, it's an indication that the fan relay is functioning normally. If not, replace the relay.
To check the fan motor assembly, use a multimeter to check the motor for power. If there's power at the fan's terminals but the fan is not working, the blower fan is defective and needs to be replaced. If power is not present, there could be connection problems in the internal wires. Take the motor to a certified auto electrician for repairs.
If the fan operates at one or some speed settings only, the blower resistor is the cause of the problem and should be replaced. Locate the blower resistor, detach it, and bring it to a parts specialist for replacement. A car's blower resistor is often located near the blower fan motor. If you cannot locate the resistor, consult the owner's manual.
 
 
YES  :

How do you fix your car's power window?

MOMMY :

Quick Answer

To fix a car's power window, first determine if the problem is mechanical or just the result of a blown fuse. If it is a fuse, replace it. If it is mechanical, identify the wiring path leading from the fuse panel to the window switch. Use a voltmeter to test for current interruption; this determines whether the switch needs replaced. Check the gaskets as well, as a tear can cause the window to stick, open slowly or not open
To determine whether the issue is fuse-based or mechanical, turn on the car without starting the engine. Attempt to lower the windows; if none work, it is most likely a fuse. If there is no movement or sound to indicate that the motor responsible for the windows is trying to work, the fuse is likely blown. If the motor sounds or the glass attempts to move, the problem is mechanical.
If the problem is a tear in a gasket, remove the old adhesive and replace it with new weatherstrip adhesive. Small tears can also be fixed with superglue. Allow either method to dry overnight before attempting to open the window.
Another issue involving gaskets is friction between the gasket and glass. This is caused by misalignment or lack of lubrication. A motor does not have the torque required to open a window under these conditions. To fix this, use a silicone spray to lubricate the entire area.
 
 
YES :

What would cause a car to lose power while trying to accelerate?

PUSPITASARI  MARIA SIBORO

Quick Answer

If a car loses power during acceleration, one of two things is causing the problem: not enough fuel or not enough power. Unfortunately, finding out an exact cause of power or fuel restriction is difficult
 
What would cause a car to lose power while trying to accelerate? 
 

Full Answer

To figure out what the car is lacking, owners should press the accelerator when the car starts to lose power. If this helps the car gain power, the problem is not fuel delivery. If pushing the accelerator does not help the car run smoother, fuel restriction is the problem. To find the problem, owners should first check the fuel filter for clogs or impurities. After the fuel filter is clean, the owner should purchase a fuel additive designed to clear out blockages in the fuel lines. Also, it is important to check to see if there are any fuel lines that are leaking or cracked and to inspect the fuel pump to see if it is working correctly.
A loss of power can be caused by any number of problems. A good place to start is the exhaust system. Car owners should check for any holes or gaps between the exhaust and the muffler. If the car has a catalytic converter, this part also needs to be tested. This can be accomplished by hitting the converter with a rubber mallet. If there is a rattling noise, it needs to be replaced. Other possible causes of a loss of power include bad spark plugs and misfiring cylinders.
 
YES :

Why does my car turn over but not start?

LIGHTING :

Quick Answer

If a car turns over but does not start, it has a problem with compression, ignition or the fuel to air ratio. Determining which of these three areas is responsible for the problem is the first step in troubleshooting, according to the Linn-Benton Community College
 
  
 

Full Answer

An engine experiencing low compression does not increase the temperature of the air and fuel mixture enough that it burns. There are several reasons cars experience low cranking compression, such as a slow turning starter motor, improper sealing of the cylinders or a broken timing belt or chain. An experienced mechanic is often able to determine the problem by listening to the engine as it attempts to crank.
In order to operate correctly, the ignition system provides a spark to ignite the compressed fuel and air mix. A spark tester helps to determine if the ignition is providing sufficient spark to start the engine. If the engine produces spark but does not start, the problem is often improperly installed plug wires. Following the manufacturer's firing order helps to resolve the problem.
An improper fuel to air mix prevents engines from starting. A bad fuel pump or filter limits the amount of fuel entering the cylinders. A plugged air filter makes the mix too rich for the car to start.
 
YES :

What can cause a car to stop running while driving?

WATER TUBE :

Quick Answer

A car can stop running while driving if it runs out of fuel or because of malfunctioning components such as alternators, fuel pumps, ignition switches or sensors. Drivers can attempt restarting the engine or gently guiding it to the side of the road if restarting fails
 

Full Answer

Car engines can stall when driving for a number of reasons. In modern cars, faulty sensors can give the onboard computer the wrong information, causing it to set incorrect parameters which in turn could cause an engine stall. In most cars, this will result in the car's "check engine" light turning on.
Furthermore, anything that interferes with the engine's supply of air or fuel can cause a stall. This could be an obstruction in the system, a malfunctioning fuel pump or a clogged filter.
In the event of an engine stall, drivers should attempt to guide the car to a safe parking spot, turn on the hazard lights and call a professional for help.
 
YES :

Why does my car stall when it is warm?

GREEK :

Quick Answer

There are several reasons a warm car may stall, including vapor lock, an overheating fuel pump and ignition coils that are cutting out. Overheating ignition coils may also cause a car to stall when warm.
                     
            

 

 

Full Answer

Vapor lock occurs when the fuel pump does not deliver enough pressure, and the fuel begins to boil in the fuel lines. When this occurs, the fuel begins to vaporize, and no matter what type of engine the car has, it cannot run on only vapors.
If the engine of the car is fuel injected, it may stall when warm due to it not receiving power from the electric fuel pumps. If the fuel pump does not get power, it cannot move the fuel through the system. This can occur in either the fuel pump relay or the automatic shutdown relay, so drivers should check both parts.
Overheating engine coils cutting out may also cause a car to stall when warm. To test this, the driver should check to see if there is a spark in the engine by cranking it. If it is working, a spark and sound occurs. If the car passes this test, the stalling may be caused by an overheating ignition switch. If the key or ignition lock are hot after attempting to start the car, this is likely the cause
 
 
 
 
YES :

What makes a car hard to start?

GRAND MA FOR GRAND PAPA MASTER :

Quick Answer

A dead battery, bad starter connection, faulty ignition switch and a clogged fuel filter are all factors that make a car hard to start. In cold weather, the slow evaporation of gasoline and coagulated oil also contributes to starting problems.
 

Full Answer

A dead battery is the most common cause of starting problems for cars, and it can be diagnosed using a battery tester to measure cranking amps. While jump-starting is a temporary solution, a dying battery will eventually die completely, so it is important to know the battery’s charge capacity and state of charge. The starter connection on a vehicle can become corroded over time, affecting the efficiency of the electrical circuit. If the starter does not spin freely when the key is turned, then the problem rests with the starter. When a car has a faulty ignition switch, turning the key to the “on” position results in the dashboard not lighting up.
During the winter, low temperatures can slow down the evaporation of gasoline, making it harder for the car to burn the fuel. One solution is to spray a small amount of ether into the engine to help it start up. The cold makes oil thicker and resistant to flowing through the engine during a cold start. Synthetic motor oils are better suited for winter weather because they retain their consistency regardless of temperature. The chemicals inside a car battery are also affected by the cold, providing less energy to the starter motor, which then causes a slow turning of the engine.
 
 
YES :

What is a starter relay switch?

      ANGEL SAW :

Quick Answer

A starter relay switch is an electrical component found in vehicles that completes a circuit between the battery and the starter motor when the ignition switch is activated. The starter relay isolates the ignition circuit from the much higher current that the starter motor requires to operate
 

Full Answer

Nearly all vehicles with internal combustion engines have an electric starter motor that initiates engine revolutions until the normal combustion process begins. These motors draw a great deal of current from the battery, often as much as several hundred amperes. Starter relay switches are often used in conjunction with an additional component called a solenoid to prevent this current from running through the ignition circuit.
 
What causes headlight condensation?
 
 
 
What is the warning light with the exclamation symbol? 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tabs for mounting the tank were welded onto the left side-strap of the radiator. A MIG welded was used to minimize heat buildup during the process.  Short screws could have been used without penetrating the radiator core tubes because the outside rows are usually capped off in the tanks 
 
 

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